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Pag Island Beyond the Party — Cheese, Lace & Hidden Beaches

Published on 2 March 2026

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Pag — An Island of Contrasts

When you think of Pag Island, the Zrce Beach parties probably come to mind first. But Croatia's fifth-largest island has far more to offer than bass and beats. Behind the barren, almost moon-like landscape lie culinary treasures, centuries-old craftsmanship, ancient olive groves, and hidden beaches that remain deserted even in peak season. A day trip away from the party strip is absolutely worth it.

Paški Sir — The Famous Pag Cheese

Paški sir (Pag cheese) is renowned far beyond Croatia's borders and is considered one of the finest sheep's milk cheeses in Europe. What makes it so special? The sheep on Pag graze on salt-covered meadows, coated by the sea spray of the Bora — the strong north wind of the Adriatic. They also feed on aromatic herbs like sage and rosemary that grow wild across the barren island.

The result is a semi-hard cheese with a distinctive, slightly salty and savory flavor that intensifies with aging. The Gligora cheese factory in Kolan offers tours and tastings — a must for any food lover. In the island's restaurants, Paški sir is often served with olive oil, figs, or Pag wine.

Pag Lace — UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage

Pag lace (Paška čipka) is an UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage item and a work of art unlike any other. Since the 15th century, the women of Pag have been creating these delicate lacework pieces by hand — using a technique passed down exclusively by word of mouth from generation to generation.

Each piece is crafted from a single thread and a needle, without an embroidery frame or machine. A single doily can take weeks or even months to complete. At the Lace Museum in Pag Old Town (Muzej paške čipke), you can watch the artisans at work and purchase finished pieces as a unique souvenir.

Lun Olive Gardens — Trees Older Than the Roman Empire

In the north of the island, on the Lun peninsula, one of Europe's most extraordinary places awaits: an olive grove with over 1,500 wild olive trees, some of which are proven to be more than 1,000 years old. The gnarled, wind-shaped trunks look like living sculptures and radiate an almost mystical atmosphere.

The olive garden is protected as a natural monument and accessible via a marked trail. The oldest tree is estimated to be over 1,600 years old — it was already standing here when the Roman Empire fell. A walk through this grove is like a journey through history.

Hidden Beaches — Away from the Crowds

Pag has over 270 km of coastline with countless bays and beaches that remain unknown to most tourists:

  • Beritnica: One of Croatia's most spectacular beaches. Nestled between dramatic rock formations and accessible only on foot or by boat, Beritnica offers an almost surreal setting. The bizarre stone formations feel like another world — perfect for unforgettable photos.
  • Sveti Duh: A quiet, sheltered bay on the southwest coast with shallow, turquoise water. Ideal for swimming and relaxing, far from the hustle and bustle.
  • Ručica: A picturesque pebble beach surrounded by tall cliffs that provide shade and shelter from the wind. Particularly popular with families.

Many of these beaches are best reached by rental car or scooter — the drive along unpaved roads is part of the adventure.

Pag Town — Renaissance by the Sea

The town of Pag was designed in the 15th century by the famous Croatian architect Juraj Dalmatinac as a planned town — the same master who created the Cathedral of Šibenik (also a UNESCO World Heritage Site). The result is a remarkable ensemble of Renaissance architecture with a symmetrical street grid that still defines the townscape today.

The Church of the Assumption on the main square, the town walls, and the narrow lanes with their stone houses invite leisurely strolling. In summer, the main square regularly hosts concerts and cultural events.

Stari Grad — The Abandoned Ghost Town

Stari Grad (Old Town) lies just a few kilometers from the present-day town of Pag and is an abandoned medieval settlement. After Juraj Dalmatinac designed the new town, the old one was left behind. Today, only ruins remain — crumbling walls, the remnants of a church, and overgrown gardens. A fascinating, slightly eerie place with a very special atmosphere.

Therapeutic Mud and Salt Pans

Pag has been famous for its salt pans for centuries, which continue to produce salt to this day. Less well known are the therapeutic mud springs near the salt pans, valued for their healing properties for skin conditions and joint ailments. A natural spa experience in the heart of nature.

The Perfect Day Trip from Zrce

Pag Island is compact enough to explore most of its attractions in a single day. Our tip: Visit the olive gardens in Lun in the morning, sample Paški sir in Kolan at noon, relax on a hidden beach in the afternoon, and head back to Zrce in the evening — just in time for the party.

Discover more about the area around Zrce and plan your perfect island excursion. For the right accommodation on Pag, we're happy to help, and if you need support planning, just contact us — we know the island's best-kept secrets.

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